Antique Vintage Art Deco Retro 18k Gold Garnet Amethyst Citrine Riviere Bracelet

Description

We have similar Riviere and Retro items, which would pair nicely with this piece, up for auction this week. To view in separate listings, please visit our store and search "Riviere" or "Retro" under our auction items.
Item Description by: Angela A.
The Piece
Auction Estimate:
,000 - ,000
Age Circa:
Retro c. 1940 - 1950
Markings:
"750" and unidentified maker's mark ("OE") on a link, tested, and guaranteed
Country of Origin:
Unknown
Brand:
OE
Gram Weight:
6.5 grams
Metal Type:
18k yellow gold
Item Weight Value:
5.00 (value all-inclusive weight)
Material:
--
Main Stone:
Almandine garnet
Main Stone Measurements/Color:
Carat weight:
approximately 2.52 carats total
Length:
6.22 mm to 6.72 mm
Width:
4.4 mm to 4.65 mm
Depth:
3.32 mm to 3.77 mm
Color:
semi-translucent deep purple-red hue
Accent Stone:
Amethyst, citrine, peridot, aquamarine, quartz
Accent Stone Measurements/Color:
Amethyst:
1.03 carats total, 6.5 mm & 6.77 mm length, 4.2 mm & 4.42 mm width, 3.28 mm & 3.52 mm depth, semi-translucent bright purple hue
Citrine:
2.16 carats total, 6.87 mm to 7.24 mm length, 4.88 mm to 4.94 mm width, 3.72 mm to 3.98 mm depth, semi-translucent golden yellow and pale yellow hue
Peridot:
1.43 carats total, 6.89 mm length, 4.59 mm & 4.89 mm width, 3.2 mm & 3.37 depth, semi-translucent bright green hue
Aquamarine:
0.75 carats total, 7.12 mm length, 5 mm width, 3.86 mm depth, semi-translucent bright blue hue
Quartz:
0.66 carats total, 6.94 mm length, 4.83 mm width, 3.71 mm depth, semi-translucent bright pink hue
Stone Treatment:
The stone(s) appear to be untreated, but we are not certified gemologists. Stone(s) have been tested and guaranteed using a professional Presidium Duo refractive, heat, and hardness tester.
Stone Cuts:
Oval faceted cuts (all)
Item Measurements:
Wearable length:
7.25"
Band width:
0.24"
Bracelet Type:
Riviere
Closure/Clasp Type:
Lobster clasp
Link Type:
Fancy yellow gold links
Notable Features:
This bracelet was handmade during the Retro period of the Art Deco era. Composed of 18k yellow gold, the bracelet features beautiful amethyst, almandine garnet, peridot, citrine, aquamarine, and pink quartz stones arranged in the riviere style. The use of so many colorful stones in this bracelet is an excellent example of the Hollywood Regency style which rose to popularity during the Retro period. Eager to show off their wealth and style, Hollywood celebrities and socialites during this time would adorn themselves with glamorous jewelry, usually featuring many colorful precious stones. This bracelet was made in the style of Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, and Tiffany designs that were influencing the Hollywood Regency style, making the viewer think of the likes of Ava Gardner and Katharine Hepburn.
There are twelve total
amethyst, almandine garnet, peridot, citrine, aquamarine, and pink quartz stones adorning this bracelet, each with an oval faceted cut providing the bracelet with brilliant sparkle. Each type of stone has a different brightly colored hue, with the three deep purple-red almandine garnet stones contrasting beautifully with the brighter purple, green, golden-yellow and pale yellow, blue, and pink hues of the two amethyst, two peridot, three citrine, one aquamarine, and one pink quartz stone, respectively. The stones are all semi-translucent, allowing light to filter through their bodies and illuminate their hues. Each stone rests securely in a yellow gold bezel setting. In classic Hollywood Regency style, the settings allow the stones to be visible from multiple angles, making them more prominent and allowing light to filter through them beautifully. This bracelet would have been the perfect accessory for a starlet attending a Hollywood party.
Each stone's setting connects to the next via a 18k yellow gold link, creating an articulated strand of beautiful stones, each set at an angle. This style of bracelet is often referred to as "riviere," so named due to its appearance evoking the image of a "river of stones." The bracelet is completed with a lobster clasp for comfortable and secure wear. When worn, the links should sit comfortably against the wrist with the stones facing outward. The generous amount of 18k yellow gold gives the bracelet an impressive item weight value of 5. A classic example of Hollywood Regency jewelry from the Retro period, this bracelet would make a valuable addition to any antique jewelry collection. Don't miss your chance to recall the Golden Age of Hollywood and become a part of this bracelet's history.
Damage:
Age appropriate wear. There are minor chips from one peridot, two garnet, and one quartz stone; however, the stones remain secure, and this does not affect wear. The bracelet could use a cleaning with warm water and mild soap in order to remove a minor build-up of grime. The lobster clasp appears to be a replacement from a previous owner, but this does not affect wear.
*This listing is for the item only. All display boxes and/or photography props do not come with your purchase.*
The History
The Art Deco era is famous for being the "Gatsby" or "Roaring Twenties" era. A lot of gorgeous and timeless designs in jewelry came out of this period. Jewelry from this period was most often crafted between 1920 and 1940. Art Deco jewelry sometimes featured white gold or platinum, geometric designs, European cut diamonds, filigree, and calibre cut stones that are specifically cut to fit the design of the piece. During the Art Deco period jewelers often made jewelry upon custom order, this would often take weeks to months to completely craft by hand.
Retro jewelry refers to pieces created in the 1940s and 1950s. This was a period during which jewelry designers were largely influenced by the changes stemming from World War II. These designs reflect an infusion of futuristic vision with elements inspired by preceding periods, encompassing a variety of gemstones, shapes, and materials. Materials used commonly in Retro jewelry are gold, gold alloys, and silver as the wartime put a restriction on the use of platinum. Designs can be masculine, geometric and modern, or softer, more feminine and floral.
The Hollywood Regency style came into fashion during the 1930s, ushered along by the Golden Age of Hollywood. This style was heralded by bright, contrasting colors and modernization of the opulence of Baroque styles, featuring a deliberately frivolous extravagance that screamed glitz and glamour. “Big girls need big diamonds” was taken to heart, and the gorgeous Hollywood stars decked themselves appropriately, with blindingly glittering jewels to showcase their lives of luxury.
Riviere is a style where individually mounted gemstones and glass stones are attached in rows or strands, creating a continuous and elegant design. Stones are often faceted and set in open back settings, allowing light to reflect throughout the stones. Riviere means “river” in French, and refers to the flowing style of this design, much like that of a river. This style gained popularity during the Georgian era and is still very fashionable today.
Garnets are a type of silicate mineral that have a long history of use, dating back as far as the Bronze Age where they were used in jewelry and as an abrasive. Historically, this stone has also been known as “carbuncle” and its modern name, garnet, is derived from the Latin granatus meaning “seed,” which is thought to be a reference to pomegranates. Found in almost any color imaginable, these stones are most commonly red in hue, with blue being the rarest variety and deep red the most prized. Throughout history these beautiful stones have been worn by the wealthy elite, ranging from the pharaohs of Egypt to the European nobility of the Middle ages. Today garnet continues to be a popular stone for use in jewelry, with the deepest red varieties being especially valuable and sought after.
Amethysts are a semi-precious variety of quartz that are valued for their varying shades of translucent purple hues. The purple color is derived from iron and other trace element deposits. Throughout antiquity, amethysts were used in religious and royal jewelry, and were considered as valuable as rubies, emeralds, and even sapphires.
Citrine is a variety of quartz that features a golden yellow hue. While yellow is the most common color, it can also be seen with a greenish-yellow, brownish-yellow, or orange tint. One famous variety of citrine is Madeira citrine, which is named for the Madeira islands off the coast of Portugal. Citrine takes on a deep orange or reddish tint when heat treated.
A stunning variety of the mineral beryl, aquamarine was named after the Latin word for seawater. Aquamarines with visible flaws are uncommon and the cost of producing synthetic aquamarine is high, therefore most aquamarine gems are natural. Light blue topaz is often mistaken for aquamarine. The large size of its crystal lattice makes many of its specimens ideal for faceting into larger sized gemstones, and thus it is seen in many opulent designs from various periods in time. Royalty commonly favored these large, precious stones. Varying in color from light blue to light green, its subtle beauty carries over well into a wide variety of jewelry styles. The value of aquamarine is often based on how limpid, or clear, it is in appearance.
Peridot, unlike many other stones, occurs only in one color. Its olive-green hue varies depending on the percentage of iron contained within. Peridot hues have been seen varying from yellow, olive, and brownish-green. Very rarely does peridot occur in a pure medium-dark green with no secondary yellow hue or brown mask.
Quartz is the second most abundant mineral found in the Earth’s crust. The name is derived from the German term “quarz” and originated from the Slavic word meaning hard. It is known to be one of the hardest minerals on earth which is why it has been historically utilized in making jewelry. Quartz gemstones are hard, durable and extremely attractive. The stones can come in a variety of colors and hues. Quartz is an inexpensive mineral, while some varieties can be extremely rare, most varieties and sizes are commonly available. It has been used for centuries in the creation of jewelry and other ornamental objects. Quartz is an extremely versatile material that can be cut and carved into many shapes and sizes which has made it an asset historical and antique jewelry. Today, quartz is one of the most important gemstones in the colored stone trade and in jewelry making.
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